Laser and copier transfers
directly to stones and plates

This is a simple, direct process that transfers toner copies (Xerox) and laser printed images directly to the surface of the stone or plate. You can also use this method to work directly on paper.

Advantages - direct, easy to do, spontaneous and low tech. Images often transfer with "flaws" or defects that in fact can be quite helpful and beautiful. Images can be worked into by hand after transferring. Transfers will be backwards on the stone/plate, and will flip back when printed.

Disadvantages - sometimes images are lost because of poor copy quality or lack of control (technique). The outcome can be unpredictable until you try it a few times and understand the nuances.

WARNING: if done correctly this is perfectly safe. If done without safety precautions this can be hazardous to your health. Always use strong solvents directly under a ventilation unit which should be ON. Where gloves and a respirator mask. Throw any rags or pads with solvent into waste cans with lids.

Materials:

toner copies or print outs

scissors, masking tape

newsprint or plain paper for blotting

gloves, and respirator mask

solvent - tricloroethane or acetone for litho, goof-off for paper

cotton pads - make up removal pads; cotton balls (available at drugstore) or webril wipes

Procedure: Practice with extra copies on the borders of your stone/plate before final application.

Position - Place image to be transferred face down upon surface. Sometimes you can use a tiny piece of masking tape to help hold it in position - the adhesive on the tape may leave a slight residue behind which can sometimes print. You can usually get rid of this later if you don’t like it.

Transfer image - Apply a very small amount of solvent on a small pad of cotton, blot on newsprint or paper until damp, not wet. When you think the solvent pad is blotted enough, apply it with pressure to the back of the copy- it will become transparent as it transfers. Rub hard, being careful not to let the copy move around. You can check your progress by lifting up an edge and peaking. Remove when done.

Additions - You can work back into the image at this point, but only with a #5 crayon. This is because you will use an extremely weak etch. A strong etch would destroy the toner transfer. The weak etch will cause any additions you make to roll-up quite a bit darker and perhaps coarser than they appear when you draw them.

A better way to go takes an additional step. Instead of making additions at this stage you will apply the weak etch, roll the image up in ink and then counter-etch before making additions. This may sound weird but it makes sense when you see how different the results are. Rolling up your transfers before making additions will allow them to become stronger and darker - you will then be able to see better what is needed in your image.

Apply Gum Arabic - If you’ve made additions with crayon, rosin and talc first. Apply straight GA liberally, with no acid added, for 5 minutes. Then remove excess with a sponge or brush and buff lightly. At this point you can roll-up or store your matrix.

Roll-up - Prepare a "thin" fresh slab of black ink, anything except crayon black. Have a little extra ink ready to go plus clean sponges, water, bounty paper towels and an empty bowl at hand.

Using paper towels or a third sponge, wash off gum on stone with plenty of water - be careful not to contaminate clean water with gum arabic by squeezing sponge into empty bowl. Remove excess water with sponge, dampen with fresh clean sponge and roll-up image. Keep stone damp (not wet) at all times - do not allow it to dry out.

After several "passes" rolling over transfers, they should be noticeably darker. You can stop whenever you like the way they look. They will continue to darken. Add ink to your palette if they are not becoming darker, add a little "greasy roll-up black" ink to your palette, or try adding a little #3 or #0 varnish to your ink to make it "greasier".

Additions - Counter-etch your plate (with prepared mixture); counter-etch your stone with very hot water for 5-10 minutes. Let stones sit overnight before drawing back into them. Plates can be drawn on right away. Make additions like you normally would except keep in mind the fact that your etch will be light. If you make additions that require a strong (9-15 drop etch), it is possible that the transfers could be damaged by it.

Deletions - scrape, hone, acid (on stone) all the conventional methods

Etch - this is conventional etch. You will rosin and talc (stone) or just talc (plate) your image and then apply your etch normally. Remember to keep strong etch mixtures away from the transfers. Consider this your first etch.

Roll-up, 2nd etch and printing - from here on out you proceed normally.


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Laser and copier transfers directly to stones and plates

Laser and copier transfers
directly to stones and plates