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Japanese Techniques (Washi) |
General Studio Safety |
Papermaking Studio Safety |
Materials
and Supplies |
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Set-up |
Preparation of Raw Fiber
Beating Fiber
Formation Aid (Neri)
Vat Set-up
Sheetforming
Techniques
Drying |
Paper in Japan is
traditionally used for much more than a writing surface. The superior
strength of washi (Japanese handmade paper) suitable for umbrellas,
lanterns, kites, clothing, string, packaging, even building materials. It
is unfortunately that Western culture and, modern mass-production methods
have permeated Japanese culture and as a result, washi is much less
prevalent today.
Washi is extremely durable but lightweight paper. Its
translucent beauty makes it a favorite printmakers, bookbinders, fine
artists, and craftspeople. |
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Until recently, handmade paper production was
part of a natural cycle in rural Japan. Toward the end of each year, when
the rice harvest was finished and the silk was all spun, out came the
papermaking paraphernalia. Papermaking used to be a winter endeavor, when
cold weather limited bacteria growth, the formation aid was more
effective, and kozo was at its prime. It is now a year round activity,
making imported pulp and chemical preservatives necessary. Some 100,000
households made paper in the mid 1800's. Now only about 400 continue the
tradition.
Kozo, mitsumata, and gampi are the three most common fibers used for
Japanese paper production, with kozo--a type of mulberry--by far the most
popular. Compared with Western pulp, they differ most importantly in the
length of the individual fibers--up to 12mm compared to less than 4mm for
cotton rag pulp. These long fibers are kept suspended in the vat with the
use of a slippery, viscous substance called formation aid, or neri. The
predominant source of neri is the root of the Tororo-aoi plant, harvested
at the same time as kozo. |
Japanese kozo = pale yellow paper
Thai kozo -- tan paper |
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Neri production is relatively easy--just pound the Tororo-aoi roots
and soak them in water. Preparation of the actual fiber takes more
patience. After soaking, the outer bark of the plant must be removed;
the black bark below and the underlying green bark must be scraped off
with a knife. The white, inner bark--or bast--is dried, soaked again,
and boiled in an alkaline solution which removes non-cellulose matter.
After a thorough washing, and bleaching in the sun, final impurities are
removed by hand. Finally, the fiber is formed into small balls ready for
beating.
Beating fiber for washi is a more delicate operation than the
beating of Western fibers. Unlike cotton rag, kozo only needs a light
beating to "tease" the fibers apart without tearing them. This
is still done by hand, generally. If a Hollander is used, the roll and
bedplate are brought close for only a short length of time, or not at
all.
Eastern and Western style methods of sheet formation differ
greatly. The Japanese call the Western method tame-zuki which might be
roughly translated as "the fill-and-hold way to make paper,"
since pulp is held in the mould until it drains and the remaining felted
pulp forms the sheet. In contrast, the Japanese method is called
nagashi-zuki and means something like "the flow-and-slosh way to
make paper." The neri in the pulp allows for multiple dips into the
vat, flowing in from the near edge and sloshing off the far side of the
mould, in a continuous movement that keeps the pulp constantly moving.
The number of times the papermaker dips the mould essentially determines
the thickness of the sheet.
The Eastern mould differs from its Western counterpart in that the
deckle is attached with a hinge, and the screen is removable. This
bamboo screen, or su, facilitates removing the sheet from the mould and
couching it onto a post of finished sheets. Felts are
unnecessary between sheets as the neri and long fibers allow the
individual sheets to separate even after pressing. Each sheet is then
carefully peeled off the post and brushed onto a smooth surface to
dry.
Copyright 1997, Hand Papermaking, Inc.
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© Beth LaCour 1999
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