Papermaking

 

papermaking studio safetygeneral studio safety

Japanese Techniques

 

 

 

 

 

Japanese Techniques (Washi)
General Studio Safety
Papermaking Studio Safety
Materials and Supplies Set-up
Preparation of Raw Fiber 
Formation Aid (Neri) 
Vat Set-up 
Sheetforming Techniques 
Drying
Paper in Japan is traditionally used for much more than a writing surface. The superior strength of  washi (Japanese handmade paper) suitable for umbrellas, lanterns, kites, clothing, string, packaging, even building materials. It is unfortunately that Western culture and , modern mass-production methods have permeated Japanese culture and as a result, washi is much less prevalent today. 
Japanese kozo = pale yellow paper 

Thai kozo -- tan paper

Until recently, handmade paper production was part of a natural cycle in rural Japan. Toward the end of each year, when the rice harvest was finished and the silk was all spun, out came the papermaking paraphernalia. Papermaking used to be a winter endeavor, when cold weather limited bacteria growth, the formation aid was more effective, and kozo was at its prime. It is now a year round activity, making imported pulp and chemical preservatives necessary. Some 100,000 households made paper in the mid 1800's. Now only about 400 continue the tradition.  

Kozo, mitsumata, and gampi are the three most common fibers used for Japanese paper production, with kozo--a type of mulberry--by far the most popular. Compared with Western pulp, they differ most importantly in the length of the individual fibers--up to 12mm compared to less than 4mm for cotton rag pulp. These long fibers are kept suspended in the vat with the use of a slippery, viscous substance called formation aid, or neri. The predominant source of neri is the root of the Tororo-aoi plant, harvested at the same time as kozo.  

Neri production is relatively easy--just pound the Tororo-aoi roots and soak them in water. Preparation of the actual fiber takes more patience. After soaking, the outer bark of the plant must be removed; the black bark below and the underlying green bark must be scraped off with a knife. The white, inner bark--or bast--is dried, soaked again, and boiled in an alkaline solution which removes non-cellulose matter. After a thorough washing, and bleaching in the sun, final impurities are removed by hand. Finally, the fiber is formed into small balls ready for beating.  

Beating fiber for washi is a more delicate operation than the beating of Western fibers. Unlike cotton rag, kozo only needs a light beating to "tease" the fibers apart without tearing them. This is still done by hand, generally. If a Hollander is used, the roll and bedplate are brought close for only a short length of time, or not at all.  

Eastern and Western style methods of sheet formation differ greatly. The Japanese call the Western method tame-zuki which might be roughly translated as "the fill-and-hold way to make paper," since pulp is held in the mould until it drains and the remaining felted pulp forms the sheet. In contrast, the Japanese method is called nagashi-zuki and means something like "the flow-and-slosh way to make paper." The neri in the pulp allows for multiple dips into the vat, flowing in from the near edge and sloshing off the far side of the mould, in a continuous movement that keeps the pulp constantly moving. The number of times the papermaker dips the mould essentially determines the thickness of the sheet.  

The Eastern mould differs from its Western counterpart in that the deckle is attached with a hinge, and the screen is removable. This bamboo screen, or su, facilitates removing the sheet from the mould and couching it onto a post of finished sheets. Felts are  
unnecessary between sheets as the neri and long fibers allow the individual sheets to separate even after pressing. Each sheet is then carefully peeled off the post and brushed onto a smooth surface to dry.  

Washi is lightweight, often translucent, but extremely durable. Its beauty and distinction make it a favorite choice of printers and printmakers, bookbinders, fine artists, and craftspeople.  

Copyright 1997, Hand Papermaking, Inc. 

Beating Fiber
  • Fiber mixed with water.
  • Using thin sides of bat, the cooked fiber is pounded to crush and abrade fibers and forces water deep into the fibers causing water molecules to attach to areas of the cellulose.
  • After the paper is formed and the water evaporates the fibers bonds are even stronger (closer) than originally in the plant. The bonds are called "hydrogen bonds" and are what hold the paper together.
  • The quality of the beating helps to determine the character of the finished paper. its hardness, translucency, tear and bursting strength.
  • Well beaten fiber makes a strong, rattlely, translucent paper that has high shrinkage.

  • Cannot use hot water at all with formation aid.
    Beat 30 - 90 minutes 

    20-30 min. according to Nash 

      

    Test 8 pinches from various sites. In jar it must disperse or it is "not done'

    Japanese Sheetforming techniques
     
       
    Vat Set-up
    • Initial vat set-up.
    1. Cold Water added to vat.
    2. Add pulp.
    3. Mix
    4. Add Formation Aid (Neri) is added later.
    5. Cannot use hot water at all with formation aid.
      Mulberry on Western screens
    Tororo-aoi (okra root) (Pronounce Torro O Owee) - mucilage
    This is not accurate Stir to evenly distribute the pulp.  Hydrate the vat. Place palm flat to the bottom of the vat. 

    In general the more water the thinner the sheet the more pulp the thicker the sheet

    Better to have too little fiber or too much neri in the vat  Formation Aid Must be used to form a sheet using Japanese method. 

    Pull the Mould through vat to form the sheet 

    • Screen up
    • Deckle placed on top of the mold to control the edge of the sheet. Screen trap the fiber and lets the water drain away.
    • Hold the two mould parts together on the short sides of the mould.
    • Perpendicularly insert mould and deckle into the far side of the vat 
    • Dip the mould into the pulp in a slow continuous motion pulling forward and gradually bringing the mould into a horizontal position.
    Multiple Dips 
    • First dip should be a full motion
    • Subsequent dips = move
    • Dip about 8 times
    • Before all of the water drains throw off excess and recharge
    • Last pull is flat and even
    Remove deckle and check sheet quality 
    • Tip mould to drain the excess water from the corners. Hold a sponge below to help catch any water that does not return to the vat.
    • Remove deckle. Kiss off deckle.
    • If the sheet is inferior, kiss it off screen so that pulp goes back into the vat
    • Re-stir the pulp slurry
    Transfer paper to felt 
    • Damp felts. If you use newspaper need to have fabric beneath
    • Couch: (Rhymes with smooch) Turn mould onto felt (or newspaper) so that paper is between the screen and felt.
    • Remove some of the water from the back of the screen with a sponge. 
    • Paper will stick to damp felt before you remove the mould
    • Should be able to read newspaper through sheet. Paper is transparent when wet.
    • Remove mould.
    • Place another layer of newsprint, or felt, on top. First roll with no pressure then gently press with a rolling pin to remove excess water. Gradually increase pressure. Pressing helps to strengthen paper. IONIC transfer.
    • Remove top felt.
    Mulberry fiber - Do not let dry out, what you do not use ....... 
    Transfer paper to cotton sheeting or drying board
    Transfer paper to cotton sheeting or drying board 
    • Place paper and felt "upside down" onto white board. The felt will be on top.
    • Roll down again with rolling pin. By adhering to "tile board", you employ restraint drying.
    • Mark your new sheet of paper with a post-it note with your name.
      Apx amount of neri
      Press dry. (OPTIONAL - We will not do in class) 
    • Place another layer of cotton sheeting on top
    • Press with a warm iron. Keep it moving.
    • Can directly iron the paper when it is nearly dry
     
         
         
         
         
         
      Japanese technique on Japanese mould.  
    • 90 degree when roll down
    • Press gently at front edge to adhere sheet slightly to help grip.
    • Between each sheet = thread.
    • 6 - 8 hours - increase the weights
    • Brush paper down onto Board after sheets are separated.
    • GAMPI = "Gahm - ee"
     
     
    HomePage
    Papermaking
    Main Menu
     
     
    © Beth LaCour 1999
     

    © Beth LaCour 2001-2003